1 week in. Hard to believe after so many years of
anticipation and preparation that a week has already flown by. (what’s that
saying again? Time flies when you want to enjoy every minute of something??)
Let me start with my host family: Cecilia and Nelly. I’ve
had many host-family situations before in the past but all seem to pale in
comparison. Cecilia (or minha mai – my mother) is in her 60s and still wakes up
at 5am everyday to gather water, start the charcoal fires for our baths (it’s
expected in this culture to take at least 2-3 bucket baths per day, which at
first seemed a bit extreme but after a few hours outside and you see your
dust-caked feet it tends to make more sense), she makes our breakfasts, snacks, lunches and
dinners from scratch every time (they don’t have a refrigerator so no left
overs), keeps her house spotless (I’ll get back to the house later), washes all
of the clothes by hand, tends her fruit and vegetable gardens out in the yard, and
is still all smiles all the while. Did I mention she’s in her 60s? Yeah.
Amazing.
And then there’s
little Nelly, who’s only 12 years old and lives apart from her parents and 4
younger siblings to stay with her grandmother here in Namaacha, Mozambique (the
rest of her family lives in Johannesburg, South Africa.) She’s also up at the
crack of dawn helping with everything, Mai only calls her name once and then
you see Nelly running with 2 huge buckets of water as big as herself (I have
trouble carrying one with only nominal spillage), she cleans, washes clothes,
cooks…. And when she has a break in her “chores” (if you can call it that, but
it’s not really since they need to do these things to survive) she runs to do
her T.P.C. (trabalho para casa – or home work). My favorite part about Nelly
though is not how selfless, helpful, independent and mature of a 12 year old
she is, but her huge smile and amazing sense of humor. When we eat at the table
I only have to catch her eye for a split second before she cracks up giggling
and laughing. We teach each other songs when we wash the dishes and sing and
dance when we do laundry outside on the rocks (her favorite singers are Rianna,
Beyonce and Chris Brown – go figure.) Yesterday at dinner she asked me if we
have clouds in America, I said yes, if we have the same sun in America, I said
yes, if we have the same moon in America., and finally how America could have
the same sun as Africa. I followed dinner with a brief tutorial of the solar
system and how the earth orbits around the sun… So while she teaches me how to
wash my pantyhose in buckets on rocks and laughs at how ridiculously bad I am
at getting the dirt out of my socks, I teach her about how in in the United
States our schools don’t end at noon but go all day, sometimes even after the
sun goes down, and that most people don’t stop school at 15 or 18 but can
continue to study for years and years (she had a good laugh when I told her I
was still technically in school myself.) Such a goofball. I’d like to think that
if I ever have children they will be little Nelly replicas, but somehow I don’t
think that’s possible.
Quick picture of our village & house: Namaacha was built
originally for a few hundred Portuguese families to have 2nd weekend
or summer homes out in the Suburbs of the capital (it’s about an hour and a
half drive from Maputo). After the war for independence in the 60s and all the
Portuguese left, the government re-appropriated many of the abandoned homes.
Since then the town has expanded exponentially to a few tens of thousands of
people (I think, might have to double check my numbers) but that the basic gist
of the village – homes that you can tell were once beautiful are now decaying
empty shells. So while we have wooden finished floors, they are worn thin, the
marble kitchen countertops are in pieces, many homes have appliances like
refrigerators and toaster ovens that are never turned on but used as shelves
and storage space. There are bars and planks jutting out of rooms where you can
tell a former owner had planned to add an addition but never finished, and it seems
like it may forever stay that way. In my house for example we have a bathroom
with a toilet, sink, and bathtub (unlike many other volunteers whose families
have outhouses and pits in the back yard) but the water has long past been
turned off so while you can still pour water down the tub and do your business
in the toilet, there are several buckets and jugs of water in the bathroom to
manually flush the water down or wash yourself with. The same in the kitchen,
where you can see the several huge jugs of water and canvass bags of grains and
vegetables replace what once must have been a very pretty European kitchen. My
room is big and gets lots of sunlight (which I feel a bit bad about since Nelly
and Mai share a smaller room). I have a big closet (no hangers though so I just
drape all of my clothes over the bar), a chair (that I use to put all of my
school books on), a trunk, a night stand and a bed. I hang my mosquito net over
my bed with string that I tie to the window sill and closet, but every morning
Mai says I must take it down, take apart my bed (blankets, sheets, covers and
all) hit them all a few times to clean, and then re-make my bed. Then sweep the
floor, and then take my 1st bucket bath of the day (my alarm goes
off at 5:30 or 6am every day, except on Sundays when I’m told I can sleep in
until 6:30!) It’s amazing how much we take things like running water and
electricity to cook with for granted, and how normal life can still be without
those luxuries. My host family has so little and yet is by far the cleanest,
welcoming, and loving host family I’ve ever had the pleasure to live with. Only
1 week in and I already feel totally at ease living here.
What else? Oh my Portuguese has been going great! I already
understand 70% of what people say to me and can talk back (my ability to
communicate is still rudimentary but I rarely get in situations where I can’t
express myself or understand someone.) I’m reading Portuguese books in my free
time and translating for other volunteers in our language classes – I think the
people in my class must be beginning to dislike me since I’m always the dork
asking the professor for extra homework. My background in Spanish and French
has definitely helped me understand and get the basics of this new romance
language, but there are lots of little differences I need to remember. Like for
example, in portuguese it’s estudante while in Spanish it’s estudiante, or trabalho/
trabajo, esse/ ese, mulher/ mujer, irmao/ hermano…. They’re so similar I’m sure
that when I start writing in Portuguese I’m going to go a little crazy!
And my group of volunteers is great, everyone makes a big
effort to be friendly and support one another (today after language class some
of us got together for a yoga session and quick pow-wow.) Unfortunately,
already 3 of our 31 have decided that this isn’t the right choice for them and
they’ve gone home (1 week in and we’re already down to 28!) But the PC staff have
been wonderful, very thorough and attentive to our training. Speaking of, I
often have to remind myself that this IS job training and not just another
study abroad program, for while many aspects are similar, after a few months
I’m not going home but going off on my own to apply everything I learn in
another foreign community. Needless to say, I take lots of notes J
Today we’ve taken a fieldtrip into Maputo with our language
classes as an excuse to buy cell phones, and tomorrow a few of us volunteers
plan to go for a 4mile run to a nearby waterfall at 7:30am. Annnnd that’s about it for now. Hope everyone
back home is doing well – big hugs and kisses !
Até logo!!
After reading this, I think I love your life as much as you do :)
ReplyDeleteSinto falta de você!
- Steph
Mi querida Emilia, que feliz estaba cuando vi tu carta. I was so excited to see your blog,I read it 3 times and have tears of happiness for you, I'm so glad you have such a beautiful family, and are adjusting so well, I knew you would be great at it. I would love to send the family and you, some things, let me know how and if i would be able to. Cracked up at the thought of you washing panty hoses on a rock...:) I'm sure Nelly has fallen in love with you already,you are a beautiful older sister. What a great opportunity for you to bond with her, I think it will be hard when you leave, you are irreplaceable. Why do you have to get up so early,chores? Do you know how this family is compensated for your visit? I would think they would get money for it. I'm glad to hear you are doing so well with your language, and yes, I would think knowing those other 2 languages would be a great help. Dad tried the phone number you gave, but said it didn't work, maybe you can check it and send it again. I feel so much better knowing you are doing so well, it makes my heart feel happy for you. Enjoy your adventure, work hard and be happy, that's everything that you deserves. Always in my heart, con todo mi amor., un abrazo muy especial para ti. Mama.
ReplyDeleteYay so exciting! We need more pictures though. I want to see your new home and family! Love you sister
ReplyDeleteI am so happy to read this. Te amo mucho. Can't wait for pictures.
ReplyDeletelet us know if you want a picture of the clouds over here to remind you of the united states
ReplyDelete