And just in case this isn't already evident: 'the views expressed in this blog are not representative of the United States Government or the U.S. Peace Corps but are my personal expressions and experiences" :)

Sunday, June 30, 2013

Wedding Bells and Monkey Tails

First thing's first: gotta brag ;)

Totally ran about 24miles this week (now if I can only cram 7 days worth of mileage into 1 morning I'd be almost ready for this race!)

Also, I won that position I was nominated for with the youth groups in Mozambique! You are currently reading the blog of one of the Southern Regional Coordinators for JUNTOS! (There are two people in that position.) I was totally shocked but I think it'll be fun to have an extra job -especially one that allows me to travel around the southern provinces, has a lot of public speaking to large groups, bunches of logistical planning, and requires some bomb people skills. The hand-over and training is in 2 weeks down in Maputo.

Now for some anecdotal updates :)

Last Friday I was invited to a meeting with another international aid organization at the provincial capital and it went great! My primary organization here doesn't receive funds from them so I was never on their radar before, but they heard that I was trying to start up a GAAC program with my district hospital and they want to support me. They provided me with transportation to and back (door to door in a private SUV instead of 6 hours in public trans), the meeting was thorough yet quick and to the point (something almost unheard of here), and it looks like they're going to help me train the rest of the hospital staff and give me the materials necessary for implementation. Fingers crossed!

On Saturday I decided to visit my “site mate” who lives about an hour away (but he's technically still my site-mate because we live in the same district). The only way to get to him is to sit on the back of an open pick-up truck for about 20-30 minutes (depending on how many stops it has to make to pick-up and drop off other passengers), to get off at a small wooden sign on the side of the highway (one of those things where if you don't know what to look for you'd never find it), and to then walk 4km into the bush through a winding maze of dirt paths until you stumble into his community. I, however, caught a lucky break that day. In exchange for purchasing the truck driver a beer (which he promised he wouldn't open until he arrived at home) I got to sit inside the truck, didn't have to pay the 75 cent fare, he offered to drive me INTO the bush, and he even picked up my friend on the way for free who had been walking to the road to meet me. Although I hate buying people alcohol, I was pretty happy with that deal.

The tuck driver dropped us off in the middle of a rolling field of coconut trees with music drifting from over a hill. When we reached the top of the hill we found ourselves smack dab in the middle of a wedding and before we knew what was happening our bags were taken from us and we were seated at the one of the head tables with plates heaping of food in front of us. Unlike back in the states where we have RSVP lists, here wedding crashing is totally acceptable – especially for two white people out in the middle of the bush. Since my friend has lived in this community for 2 years now he knew a lot of the people at the wedding, which meant we were even more obliged to stay and eat and drink with them because he didn't want to be rude and insult his community members. So even though we had food already prepared back at his house for dinner we buckled down and dug into our plates of rice and beef and made small talk with the head men of the community we were sitting with. Weddings here are full weekend-events: on Saturday everyone accompanies the happy couple first to register and attain their official wedding license from the state, then everyone follows the couple to the church for the religious ceremony, and finally it's party-time at the bride's family's home. The following day everyone meets again to the groom's family's home and spends the entire 2nd day just giving presents, eating and dancing. Quite the event. At this wedding there was music, hundreds of people dancing, lying on reed mats under the coconut trees, playing soccer, cooking and eating. One of my favorite moments of that meal was when I exclaimed how lucky I was to get a potato in my curry and then bit down into a big chunk of pure white beef fat. Luckily, living in Mozambique for 2 years has altered my friend's standards of what is edible so we sneaked all of my fat-potatoes onto his plate the rest of the meal.

Long after sundown we were finally able to sneak away through the trees, and then continued on our trek back to his reed house where another friend of ours had been waiting for us. Let me just insert a few words here to describe this community.... it's absolutely gorgeous. It's located on the coast and is all sand and hills and coconut trees and flowers. I really don't think there's a single place where you can't see a view of the ocean. There's no electricity but I was lucky enough to visit on a cloudless night with a huge bright full moon. So for our second dinner the three of us threw down reed mats on the sand outside my friend's house and ate soup, salad and bread under the moon facing the ocean out beyond the coconut trees. Totally worth the full stomach :)

Last Tuesday was Mozambique's Independence Day and I went to the ceremonies with some friends. For hours and hours on end we stood in the hot sun watching theater plays and dances, listening to speeches, songs, and poems, and shifting from foot to foot. Most of the ceremony was in local language which was a bummer but to compensate for that was the fact that the entire event was held outside under a huge budding mango tree.

The next day was Morrumbene Day so it began with the same general ceremonies, only this time after the first few songs, salutes, and speeches we all migrated to the club (which is kind of like a community center). The JICA volunteer in my town who works with the agriculture department had organized my district's first Farmer's Market and I'd asked my JUNTOS kids to participate. We were going to perform a play about trash and sanitation but in the end the kids lost their nerve and instead we all just wore our t-shirts and one of their friends sold bead jewelry that she makes. The fair went great, and people from the local radio even came and interviewed my kids about what our group does and our mission. After the fair I invited my kids back to my house and we made a chocolate cake :) They hung out at my house watching english tv shows and listening to my music, then the boys found some computer games and spent hours playing mortal combat and racing games. All and all it was a great day :)

This past Friday I went to a near-by beach town to meet up with some girl-friends from around the province and we had a girl's night dancing and catching up with one another. The next morning, although sore and sleepy, I still pulled on some shorts and a sports bra and went down to the beach for my morning run. I started off slow and a bit queasy but after 10 minutes all that was forgotten. All there was was me, the waves, the wind, and the little crabs scurrying into their holes in front of me. I was feeling strong enough to set a goal: I'd run to the point in the distance where the coast disappeared. I knew it'd only be about 2 or 3 miles away, but what I didn't count on was the fact that the farther away I ran from the town, the less of a “beach” there was to run on. Eventually the beach had completely disappeared to just tall steep sand dunes at the edge of the water, water which was chock-filled with sharp black rocks and just a few yards away were huge waves as tall as I was. But no matter, I'd made up my mind to run to the point and it didn't matter that I was running in sand up to my ankles at a 45 degree angle – I wasn't going to turn back. Of course, the trouble of saying you're going to run to a point in the coast is that you never actually know when you've reached it. I'd reach one bend only to see another a little farther off, and then another, and another.... At one point something moved in the corner of my vision and I looked up to see a gray and black monkey frolicking up on the sand dune next to me, and then another joined him, and then 3 more... Soon there was a family of monkeys running along side me up on the sand dune :) They didn't accompany me for long, and after about a minute they stopped and silently watched me trudge along through the waves. Finally, long after the amount of time I'd planned on running, I decided it was about time to turn around and head back (especially since I couldn't even see the coast I'd started from on any more). I stopped for a moment at my final bend to take a deep breath of the ocean air, and what did I see on the other side but two old white tourists walking along with sun caps collecting sea shells! (I guess they must have been walking from the next beach town along the coast?) Oh wells, not completely alone with the crabs and the monkeys but that's the price you pay for staying at a tourist town!

Okie dokie, time to wash some laundry. Before I go though, just want to say HAPPY BIRTHDAY MAMA! Can't wait to see you guys in 3 weeks!!!

Big hugs :)


Emily

Monday, June 17, 2013

Lacing up

So me and my running buddy in town took that next step and signed up for the Cape Town marathon! I'm a little scared it still won't happen since having lived in Mozambique for over a year now I've come to accept that nothing is ever certain and I must always be ready for plans to fall apart at any moment. Yet having that said, at the same time I'm equally scared it WILL happen! I just signed up to run 26 miles in 3 months and I've never ran over 13 miles in my life, I hadn't been running very often these past few months, and I don't necessarily have the ideal running accessories available here... I've been running with my 2-year-old minimalist shoes and for long runs I tape my cell phone around my arm so I can listen to the local radio, which more often than not is in local language I don't even understand! Thanks to my best friend back home I DO have a brand spanking new camel pack I can use for water, and next month I'm going to meet my family in South Africa and will try to hunt down some new running shoes and a distance tracker to monitor my millage. So yeah, I'm currently a mixed bag of woo-hoo-I've-always-wanted-to-do-this and oh-my-goodness-what-have-I-gotten-myself-into feelings ;)

Being the dork that I am, I did a little research and made myself a 16-week running schedule that I've successfully followed for 2 weeks now, the first week reaching 14miles and this last week totaling about 16.5 miles (that's assuming I'm running 10-min miles but I have no idea what my actual speed is running through the dirt paths.)

On another front, we had a big workshop for our youth groups in Inhambane this past weekend! I took 5 of my kids and my counterpart (so really I had 6 kids ;) to a university about 2 hours away from Friday to Sunday. OOOOPA was that tiiiiring! I love my group but I have new-found appreciation for teachers who have to deal with teenagers every day. We had a great weekend learning about STDs, (with a big emphases on HIV in particular), pregnancy, gender issues, puberty etc... My group also performed the drug and alcohol abuse play they'd put together and was able to network and share ideas with the other groups in neighboring districts. It was a lot of fun but man was I beat by the time I got home Sunday evening.

During the conference one of the facilitators asked me to apply for a coordinator position next year so last night I sent in my “application” to be the southern region coordinator for all youth groups in the 3 southern-most provinces of the country. We have votes right now so I'll know by next week if I have a new activity to do in my free time (I'm not too optimistic but we'll see! If I get the position there are definitely a few things I'd like to beef up for next year's trainings and conferences...)

Did I mention that the workshop venue was on the coast? One of my favorite parts this past weekend was waking up before everyone else in the mornings, lacing up my running shoes, sneaking out of the university campus in the gray-dawn light, stretching my legs while holding onto a big tree with a bee hive on the first branch so the buzzing noises filled my head, and then climbing down through the thickets and flowers to the water.

The first day I ran north and soon came upon a group of men pulling a fishing boat out into the water. For awhile I chatted with the men in the boat about our respective schedules for the day: mine was to sit in a auditorium with about 100 teenagers while there's was to sail out to a nearby island and fish out on the water under the sun. It was hard to decline the invitation to jump onto the boat with them. Then I caught up to the men pulling the boat out and they asked me for a hand. Without breaking stride I picked up the rope and started pulling the boat along with the men until they were all jogging along with me and the boat behind us had picked up enough speed. When the cheering of the men died down I bid my new friends good bye and turned around to return back down the coast. On my way back I came across an old man with a big wooden post for the sail on his boat so I asked if he'd like a hand. Together we dragged it out to his boat on the water. Once it was by the boat I again bid adieu and continued on my way. As I jogged this last stretch I watched the sun finally rise it's head over the water and through the morning clouds, and then I found my way back to the path through the thickets, climbed up to the big tree with the bee hive, and slid through the side door returning back to the campus....

The next day I ran south down the coast and faced a wall of wind with every step (later that day there was a big storm.) Every step felt like wading through water in a dream and I watched dried seaweed and leaves dance over the white sand. I ran through a graveyard of old abandoned boats with the paint chipping off where their names had once read and large holes pocketing their sides like battle wounds. There was one monster of a boat taking up half the beach so I had to climb up the beach and over the sand mound through the wind to get to the other side. Once I climbed over the little hill and was safe on the side sheltered from the wind I looked back to find a tree growing right through the heart of the boat. It was beautiful. Eventually I gave up battling against the wind and turned around to be literally flown back to where I started in half the time it took me to get there.

The funny thing is, the teenage boys in my group also ran both mornings that weekend but they refused to join me on the beach in the early morning hours because it was “too dirty.” Instead ran in circles around the basketball court.


Big hugs, especially to my father and abuelito – happy belated father's day!

Sunday, June 9, 2013

From the mountains to the mangroves

First thing first: Bush Fire. I don't know what I'd expected, I guess I hadn't thought too much about what I'd find down in Swaziland expect that I wanted to add another country to my list.

(Country list explanation: a friend / former colleague had had a big map of the world in his office covered with colored pushpins, explaining that a person must always keep track of where he/ she's traveled in the world because as you grow older and your list grows longer memories can get hazy. His rule of thumb was that you could only count places you've slept over in (and layovers & cruises don't count!) I keep a running list in my head for the day when I'll finally settle down and purchase my own map of the world. My current list: the USA, Mexico, Nicaragua, Ecuador, Spain, France, Italy, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Mozambique, and now Swaziland!)

Swaziland was GORGEOUS! Absolutely breathtaking. The first things I noticed upon arrival:
  • there was no garbage on the streets! This fact in itself blew my mind....
  • there were flowers everywhere, even in the cities
  • the buildings weren't falling apart in disrepair, with paint chipping off and coal smoke stains crawling up the sides
  • and, wonder of all wonders: there were occupancy limits to the public transportation!!!!! In several countries in Africa they use these 15-person vans for public transportation, however in Mozambique we cram 19 – 25 people in them (not including the babies, chickens, bundles of coconuts, etc...) Oh sweet glory to sit in a bus and be able to move my legs!!!
Swaziland is a very beautiful country being situated up in the mountains with quaint little villages in the valleys and wide open agricultural fields speckled throughout. The music festival venue was situated high in the mountains so that when you turned your gaze from the stage you'd see fields upon fields rolling out up and down the mountain-sides. The festival itself was quite impressive as well: extremely well organized, great food, an array of unique arts and crafts to appreciate and purchase, and an impressive line-up of musicians and performers from all corners of the globe. It was also a treat to meet and chat with the people who attended the festival; like myself many people there were from foreign countries traveling and/or working in the southern horn of Africa. I spent countless hours exchanging stories and travel tips with my fellow globe-trotters :)

I rushed home on Monday, waking up at 5am to pack up the tent and not stepping into my house until 23hours (!!) But the travel-packed day was worth it because by 8am the next morning I was out the door running to meetings and activities. From sunrise to sunset all week I've been super busy and productive, and you know only too well how much of much a treat that is.

I made 2 blackboards this week (bought a big plywood board, sawed it in half with my trusty swiss army knife, and then made a chalkboard paint with paint, black dye, and this white powder I got from a peace corps supervisor during my travels last weekend.) One board I left in my association to use for our English Club meetings, and the other I brought over to my friend who has recently started her own pre-school business.

The English Club started this week, we're offering free classes 3 nights a week for 2 hour sessions. It's only been one week and I don't want to jinx anything but attendance has been high, participation strong, and we've all been having a great time laughing and working together. This group so far is on top of they're game and seem like they'll stick with it.
We had 2 REDES meetings this week, each about 2 hours long and with different groups (one day is girls 10-12 years old, the other girls 15-17 years old). The girls are very shy but my counterpart (the woman who started the pre-school) is great interacting with them and the two of us had a great dynamic feeding off the others' energy. By the end of each session we'd played ice-breaker games, gone around the room having each girl talk a little about themselves, and had a good discussion about our group's goals and activities.

My JUNTOS group this week has been on FIRE! We've met for at least an hour or two every day practicing on a theater piece they put together about youth drug and alcohol abuse. Another kid wrote a poem about HIV and a girl finally finished her first news article about sanitation in our town. I'm so proud of them :) We have a workshop in a town about 45min away this coming weekend so they're all pretty psyched about performing the theater piece there!

Not much to update for my primary projects. Tomorrow we have one of our monthly meetings with the all of the association's activists and supervisors so I'm going to work with the OVC activists and make up a more concrete plan of our intended activities, materials, and costs of the project we've been discussing. Meanwhile the president and some of the leadership in the organization has been working on starting a sewing project, to teach our clients how to sew and offer classes to the general public to raise venues. I personally haven't been pushing this project too much because it's not based out of community needs, and we're not taking advantage of the talents available in our current workforce... but on the other hand the association seems to be really heart-bent on the idea and I don't want to dampen their enthusiasm. We'll see how it pans out. On Tuesday we're all going out into the bush to harvest some mandioca that we planted there earlier in the season. Originally we were supposed to have planted the tubers in order to give to our OVCs for food security purposes but now the association has changed its mind and wants to sell the produce and use the funds to purchase notebooks and pens for the kids. Again, I'm not too thrilled about changing the plan at the last minute and expressed my hesitations, but, as always, my concerns were brushed aside. I conceded that I'd be on board with the new plan as long as the funds are ACTUALLY used to buy school materials for the kids and not thrown into the coffers to use for “other” purposes.... I'll be keeping an eye on where that money goes.

On the personal front I started running again this week (woo hoo!) On Tuesday after English Club I went out with the Japanese volunteer in town and a fellow Peace Corps Volunteer who was crashing with me on his way traveling back up to his site. While drinking a beer, snacking on cacana (ground peanuts, mandioca, coconut and sugar mixed together), and grabbing a late dinner of rice, salad and curry we chatted about our respective upcoming travels this year. My Japanese friend mentioned a marathon coming up in September in Cape Town, and half joking proposed that we should go do it. I jumped at the idea, did some research on it the next evening after work, and now have been pushing him to sign up with me. No definite affirmative or negative yet, but I've been looking for motivation to get back in shape for awhile now so just having a prospective race has been enough to get me out of bed at 5:30 these past few days for 45-60 min jogs. Every time I re-start running I'm always amazed at how beautiful the world is in those early morning hours; I watch the sun rise up through the mists over the mangroves in the river where the women wash their clothes and the children bathe, running through the sand footpaths through forests of coconut, papaya, avocado, lemon, orange and mango trees (the mango trees are beginning to blossom again!) Children in school uniforms try to keep up with me running in fits of giggles for a few minutes at a time, men and women old and young call out good morning, sometimes I even hear people yell out my name which always makes me smile. Already I've had a few people approach me and ask to run with me, this morning I was supposed to run with one of the guards in the town prison but he overslept and only came out in his running sweats when I was already on my way home. The doctor in town has also asked to run with me, a cook in the official administrative kitchens, and one of the kids in my JUNTOS group. Hopefully this running frenzy doesn't fizzle away like all the other times! I've also been talking up doing some work-out videos with my neighbors, activists and JUNTOS kids. I have a fellow Peace Corps friend who does Insanity work-out videos with her OVCs and activists and I'd love to copy her!

Okay, this update is sufficiently long and tedious enough, if you've read this far you deserve a congratulatory pat on the back! (By the way, is this boring to people? Is there anything else in particular you'd prefer to read about besides my day-to-day??)

Big hugs to my far-away friends, family, former colleagues, old college and grad-school classmates, workout buddies, passing acquaintances, and curious strangers!


tia emilia